pageserver: batching & concurrent IO: update binary-built-in defaults; reduce CI matrix (#11923)

Use the current production config for batching & concurrent IO.

Remove the permutation testing for unit tests from CI.
(The pageserver unit test matrix takes ~10min for debug builds).

Drive-by-fix use of `if cfg!(test)` inside crate `pageserver_api`.
It is ineffective for early-enabling new defaults for pageserver unit
tests only.
The reason is that the `test` cfg is only set for the crate under test
but not its dependencies.
So, `cargo test -p pageserver` will build `pageserver_api` with
`cfg!(test) == false`.
Resort to checking for feature flag `testing` instead, since all our
unit tests are run with `--feature testing`.

refs
- `scattered-lsn` batching has been implemented and rolled out in all
envs, cf https://github.com/neondatabase/neon/issues/10765
- preliminary for https://github.com/neondatabase/neon/pull/10466
- epic https://github.com/neondatabase/neon/issues/9377
- epic https://github.com/neondatabase/neon/issues/9378
- drive-by fix
https://neondb.slack.com/archives/C0277TKAJCA/p1746821515504219

libs/utils/src/tracing_span_assert.rs

@@ -127,12 +127,12 @@ macro_rules! __check_fields_present {
 
             match check_fields_present0($extractors) {
                 Ok(FoundEverything) => Ok(()),
-                Ok(Unconfigured) if cfg!(test) => {
+                Ok(Unconfigured) if cfg!(feature = "testing") => {
                     // allow unconfigured in tests
                     Ok(())
                 },
                 Ok(Unconfigured) => {
-                    panic!("utils::tracing_span_assert: outside of #[cfg(test)] expected tracing to be configured with tracing_error::ErrorLayer")
+                    panic!(r#"utils::tracing_span_assert: outside of #[cfg(feature = "testing")] expected tracing to be configured with tracing_error::ErrorLayer"#)
                 },
                 Err(missing) => Err(missing)
             }