fix: no more ansi colored logs (#4613)

Allure does not support ansi colored logs, yet `compute_ctl` has them.

Upgrade criterion to get rid of atty dependency, disable ansi colors,
remove atty dependency and disable ansi feature of tracing-subscriber.

This is a heavy-handed approach. I am not aware of a workflow where
you'd want to connect a terminal directly to for example `compute_ctl`,
usually you find the logs in a file. If someone had been using colors,
they will now need to:
- turn the `tracing-subscriber.default-features` to `true`
- edit their wanted project to have colors

I decided to explicitly disable ansi colors in case we would have in
future a dependency accidentally enabling the feature on
`tracing-subscriber`, which would be quite surprising but not
unimagineable.

By getting rid of `atty` from dependencies we get rid of
<https://github.com/advisories/GHSA-g98v-hv3f-hcfr>.

workspace_hack/Cargo.toml

@@ -54,7 +54,7 @@ toml_edit = { version = "0.19", features = ["serde"] }
 tower = { version = "0.4", features = ["balance", "buffer", "limit", "retry", "timeout", "util"] }
 tracing = { version = "0.1", features = ["log"] }
 tracing-core = { version = "0.1" }
-tracing-subscriber = { version = "0.3", features = ["env-filter", "json"] }
+tracing-subscriber = { version = "0.3", default-features = false, features = ["env-filter", "fmt", "json", "smallvec", "tracing-log"] }
 url = { version = "2", features = ["serde"] }
 
 [build-dependencies]