## Problem
We don't have any observability for Safekeeper WAL receiver queues.
## Summary of changes
Adds a few WAL receiver metrics:
* `safekeeper_wal_receivers`: gauge of currently connected WAL
receivers.
* `safekeeper_wal_receiver_queue_depth`: histogram of queue depths per
receiver, sampled every 5 seconds.
* `safekeeper_wal_receiver_queue_depth_total`: gauge of total queued
messages across all receivers.
* `safekeeper_wal_receiver_queue_size_total`: gauge of total queued
message sizes across all receivers.
There are already metrics for ingested WAL volume: `written_wal_bytes`
counter per timeline, and `safekeeper_write_wal_bytes` per-request
histogram.