The new features have deteriorated layer flushing, most recently with
#7927. Changes:
- inline `Timeline::freeze_inmem_layer` to the only caller
- carry the TimelineWriterState guard to the actual point of freezing
the layer
- this allows us to `#[cfg(feature = "testing")]` the assertion added in
#7927
- remove duplicate `flush_frozen_layer` in favor of splitting the
`flush_frozen_layers_and_wait`
- this requires starting the flush loop earlier for `checkpoint_distance
< initdb size` tests