feat(direct IO): runtime alignment validation; support config flag on macOS; default to DirectRw (#11868)

This PR adds a runtime validation mode to check adherence to alignment
and size-multiple requirements at the VirtualFile level.

This can help prevent alignment bugs from slipping into production
because test systems may have more lax requirements than production.
(This is not the case today, but it could change in the future).

It also allows catching O_DIRECT bugs on systems that don't have
O_DIRECT (macOS).
Consequently, we can now accept
`virtual_file_io_mode={direct,direct-rw}` on macOS now.
This has the side benefit of removing some annoying conditional
compilation around `IoMode`.

A third benefit is that it helped weed out size-multiple requirement
violation bugs in how the VirtualFile unit tests exercise read and write
APIs.
I seized the opportunity to trim these tests down to what actually
matters, i.e., exercising of the `OpenFiles` file descriptor cache.

Lastly, this PR flips the binary-built-in default to `DirectRw` so that
when running Python regress tests and benchmarks without specifying
`PAGESERVER_VIRTUAL_FILE_IO_MODE`, one gets the production behavior.

Refs
- fixes https://github.com/neondatabase/neon/issues/11676

docker-compose/pageserver_config/pageserver.toml

@@ -5,3 +5,4 @@ listen_http_addr='0.0.0.0:9898'
 remote_storage={ endpoint='http://minio:9000', bucket_name='neon', bucket_region='eu-north-1', prefix_in_bucket='/pageserver' }
 control_plane_api='http://0.0.0.0:6666' # No storage controller in docker compose, specify a junk address
 control_plane_emergency_mode=true
+virtual_file_io_mode="buffered" # the CI runners where we run the docker compose tests have slow disks